While it is true that vegetable dyes may be duller than aniline dyes and do not have the variety they are more permanent and are mellowed with time into exquisite colour combinations.

Utensils used.
   Copper kettles are the best and when possible should be used in vegetable dyeing. Tin is good for bright colours but is affected by acids. Iron is good for certain plants but is very hard to keep clean. Brass may be used but it is not as good as the above named vessels. Enameled ware may be used but it should never be used for food purposes after dyeing.

Cleaning of utensils.
   Untinned copper vessels are best cleaned with fine sand and a little diluted sulphuric acid. Vinegar or sour milk may also be used.

Washing of wool.
   All materials to be dyed must be thoroughly clean. Wool is usually washed very little before spinning. To obtain the best results the skeins of yarn must not be too thick. Ordinarily 80 gram of weight to the hank is quite sufficient. The finer the yarn, however the less there should be to the hand. Remember that to obtain definite results care should be taken to weigh all materials to be dyed and to hold to definite measurements.

Water used in washing.
   Rainwater is best for washing purposes; all newly spun and unwashed wool must be washed three times in lukewarm water.

   The first washing is done in eight parts of water containing 200 grams of soda. If the wool is very dirty wash it in two solutions of soda and water.

   The second washing is done in 10 parts of water to 100 grams of soda and 200 grams of good soap equal to Ivory soap in quality.

   The third washing is done in 10 parts of water to 110 grams of soap only.

   Care should be taken not to wash too large a quantity of wool at one time. From 2 to 5 kilograms in the bath at one time is quite sufficient.

   The washed material is first rinsed in lukewarm water and then in several cold waters.

Mordant.
   Sometimes the mordant is placed in the dye itself, but more often the material itself is mordanted before placing in the dye. Alum is a useful mordant for most vegetable dyes. When alum is used it must be boiled in order that it becomes thoroughly dissolved.

   All goods must be wet before entering the mordant.

   If Vitriol's are used in mordanting they must be placed in lukewarm water only.

   Mordant materials for one to two hours.

   When mordanting the material should be well covered with water.

Formulae for dyeing.
   The following recipes have been tried out successfully and are offered to those who are interested enough to use them and investigate the field of vegetable dyeing further.

Yellow Dyes

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum...........................32 gr.
    Fresh bayberry leaves.........500 gr.

   Mordant the material first. Boil the leaves for one hour, drain, add material and boil for one hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (mordant).................35 gr.
    Fresh wild parsley..............1 kg.

   Boil the parsley for one hour, drain, add the alum, stir well until alum has dissolved. Boil material in solution from half to one hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (mordant).................32 gr.
    Fresh alder...................500 gr.

   Mordant the material first. Boil the leaves for one hour, drain, add material and boil for a half hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (mordant).................32 gr.
    Bayberry leaves...............500 gr.

   Mordant the material first. Boil the fresh leaves for 2 hrs, drain, add materials and boil from one to two hours, according to darkness of color desired.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (mordant).................32 gr.
    Dry birch leaves..............500 gr.

   Soak the leaves for a day before using. Boil the soaked leaves for one hour and drain. Add the alum to this solution and boil yarn in it from half to one hour. If the yarn is dried without rinsing and then placed in a weak birch ash lye, the color becomes a reddish yellow.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (mordant).................40 gr.
    Dry apple bark................250 gr.

   The material is first mordanted in the alum water. Cut the bark into small pieces and soak for a day before using. It is then boiled for two hours and strained. Boil the mordanted yarn in the bark liquid from half to one hour. By using more bark and boiling longer a darker yellow is obtained. This color fades a little if it is not very dark.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (mordant).................40 gr.
    Kinnikinnic.....................1 kg.

   Chop in kinnikinnic fine and boil for three hours. Drain and boil the mordanted material in the liquid for half to one hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (mordant).................32 gr.
    Alder bark......................2 kg.

   Mordant the yarn in the usual way. Chop the alder bark fine and soak for a day before using. Boil from two to three hours, drain and boil the yarn in the liquid for one hour, or longer according to the depth of color desired.

Red Dyes

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Cream of tartar................16 gr. 
    Alum...........................65 gr.   Mordant
    Madder........................250 gr.

   Mordant the yarn for two hours and let it remain in the liquid till cool, then rinse in lukewarm water. The yarn may be allowed to dry after removing from the mordant; then it is rinsed in warm water before it is put in the madder liquid. The madder is put to soak for a day before it is used in enough cold water to make a very thin solution. If there are hard lumps they must be rubbed apart in order to thoroughly soak. When ready to dye, the soaked madder mass is put in clean cold water and when luke-warm the mordanted yarn is added. This is heated slowly to 60 or 70 degrees centigrade or hot enough to burn ones fingers. Stir the yarn constantly and keep the solution at the same temperature as long as the yarn is in it. It must not boil. If the yarn is not stirred it becomes spotted as that part of the madder liquid that heats the quickest gives a stronger color that the other. The red coloring matter in the madder dissolves without boiling, but with boiling the other ingredients in the madder are also dissolved and these cause the red color to lose its brightness and change it to brown. When the yarn has been in the madder liquid for the required time it is allowed to remain in the solution until cool. Keep stirring until cool. It is then rinsed and washed in several waters to remove the loose madder. When the yarn is allowed to dry after being mordanted, the red color becomes a little darker. All dark madder colors are absolutely fast. The lighter ones fade a little as the years go by.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Cream of tartar................16 gr. }
    Alum...........................40 gr. } Mordant
    Madder........................175 gr.

  Treat the same as No. 9.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Madder........................125 gr.

  Mordant the yarn for one hour and keep it in the warm color liquid from a half hour to 1 hour.

    Red...........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Madder.........................75 gr.

  Mordant as in No. 11 but keep the yarn in the color liquid only for a half hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................32 gr.
    Madder.........................25 gr.

  Treat as No. 12.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Madder.........................50 gr.

   Mordant the yarn as usual; when cool, wrap the wet material in a cloth so it does not dry out. Allow it to lie in this way from 6 to 8 days. It is then treated with madder as above mentioned. The yarn should be squeezed in a little lukewarm water before putting it in the color liquid.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Cream of tartar................16 gr. }
    Alum...........................48 gr. } Mordant
    Madder........................125 gr.
    Oak Gall.......................13 gr.

   Mordant the yarn as usual. When the madder liquid is lukewarm add the yarn and heat slowly, allow it to boil for a half hour. Remove the yarn and to the liquid add the finely powdered oak galls. The yarn is again placed in the color liquid and boiled for a half hour, when it is removed and allowed to dry. If more color is used the yarn will be darker, and if from 3 to 10 gr. of iron vitriol is added it becomes browner.

   How to Add Vitriol: When the vitriol is to be added, the yarn is first removed and the vitriol is allowed to melt in the boiling liquid. This is cooled by adding a little cold water. The yarn is now returned and boiled for a few minutes, then it is removed, cooled and rinsed. The lighter madder color may be had by coloring the mordanted yarn in the cool liquid left in No. 9, 10 or 11. These colors are somewhat more of a yellowish color than when fresh madder is used. By using stronger or weaker mordants and more or less madder many colors not mentioned in these recipe's may be made. Always remember that a strong mordant is used when a dark color is required.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Tin.............................4 gr.
    Nitric Acid....................50 gr.    Mordant
    Water..................150 to 200 gr.
    Cream of tartar................50 gr.
    Cochineal.....................100 gr.

   The cream of tartar and the cochineal are soaked. When the water for the coloring is boiling, add the cochineal and cream of tartar and boil for ten minutes. Keep the liquid well skimmed. After the scum has been removed add the yellowish solution of tin, water and acid and stir well. Put in the dry yarn, turning it quickly around and later more slowly. Boil from 1 to 1 1/4 hrs., according to darkness of color desired. Remove, cool and dry.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Tin.............................4 gr.
    Nitric Acid....................25 gr.    Mordant
    Water...................75 to 100 gr.
    Cream of tartar................50 gr.
    Cochineal......................50 gr.

Treat the same as No. 16.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Tin.............................8 gr.
    Nitric Acid....................50 gr.    Mordant
    Water..................150 to 200 gr.
    Cream of tartar................50 gr.
    Cochineal......................25 gr.

   When the water for the coloring comes to a boil, put in the cream of tartar and let it dissolve; add the cochineal. Boil for ten minutes, keeping the scum skimmed from the surface of the boiling mixture. Add the yellowish tin solution as in No. 17 and put the dry yarn into the boiling mixture, turning it quickly around and later a little more slowly. Boil 1 hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Tin.............................8 gr.
    Nitric Acid....................50 gr.    Mordant
    Water..................150 to 200 gr.
    Cream of tartar................50 gr.
    Cochineal......................50 gr.

Treat the same as No. 18.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Cream of tartar................16 gr.
    Alum............................8 gr.    Mordant
    Cochineal......................16 gr.

   Mordant the yarn for 2 hrs. and cool. Put the powdered and soaked cochineal in fresh water and boil for 15 minutes. Add the yarn and boil for 2 hrs., after which it is ready to be taken out and dried.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.

   Mordant the yarn as usual. Boil the yarn for a half hour in the solution left from No. 16 or 17. The color becomes lighter after the use of No. 17 than after No. 16.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum...........................32 gr. 
    Cream of Tartar................32 gr.    Mordant
    Starch.........................32 gr.
    Cochineal......................15 gr.
    Cream of tartar.................6 gr.

   Mordant the yarn for 1 hour The starch must be mixed with a little cold water before it is added to the mordant. Boil the soaked cochineal and cream of tartar in fresh water for 15 minutes. The mordanted yarn is boiled in this from half to 1 hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum...........................50 gr.
    Cream of tartar................32 gr.    Mordant
    Cochineal......................25 gr.
    Madder.........................20 gr.
    Starch.........................13 gr.

   Mordant as usual. Sock the cochineal and the madder together and boil for 10 minutes. Dissolve the starch in cold water and put it in before the yarn is added tot he cold solution. Boil from half to 1 hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................32 gr.

   Boil a half hour in mordant. Boil a half hour in solution left from No. 17. If the color is to be a light shade, double the amount of yarn, or throw away half the color solution and add clear water.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.

   The dry unmordanted yarn is boiled from a quarter to a half hour. in the solution left from No. 18 or 19. If more yarn is taken the color becomes lighter; it is also lighter when using No. 18 than when using No. 19.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum...........................40 gr.
    Cream of tartar................16 gr.    Mordant
    Madder.........................40 gr.
    Brazil wood....................40 gr.
    Potash..........................7 gr.

   Mordant as usual, after which the yarn is placed in the madder solution described in No. 9 and allowed to remain for 1 hour. The brazil wood which has been soaked is placed in a bag and this is boiled in clean water half hour. The bag is now removed and the madder colored yarn is then boiled in the solution from half to 1 hour Let it lie in the solution till cooled a little. Then it is taken out and the potash, which has been well dissolved is added to the solution and the yarn is put in again and left for 10 to 15 minutes. Allow the yarn to remain in the solution till cool, and then wash in strong soap suds. This is an inexpensive red blue color but is not so pretty as the Salmon Red.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum...........................40 gr.
    Cream of tartar................16 gr.    Mordant
    Bed straw roots...............250 gr.

   Mordant the yarn from 1 to 2 hrs. The dry roots are ground or chopped fine and put to soak. During the dyeing the yarn is treated the same way as was described in No. 9 for madder coloring, except that the yarn is boiled a little toward the end.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Ground pine (mordant).........250 gr.
    Madder or bed straw...........250 gr.

   Mordant the yarn in ground pine in the following way: The ground pine is chopped fine and soaked in as much water as is needed for the dyeing. The mixture is heated everyday and must remain in a warm place where it can be kept lukewarm. After 3 or 4 days it acquires a sour smell. Boil well and strain. As it boils, add a little water. In this strained solution put the wet yarn and heat everyday for three or four days and let it stand in a warm place. The last day boil well. The yarn will then have a light yellowish, green gray color and a sour smell. The yarn is now rinsed and allowed to dry before it is colored red. The madder is prepared as described in No. 9. Before the yarn is put into the red dye it must be well squeezed in warm water.

The Preparation of Olium.

   The Norwegians succeed in getting the most beautiful shades of blue through the use of what they call Olium.

This is made the following way:    Indigo is dissolved with sulphuric acid by mixing 15 gr. powdered indigo with 125 gr. of smoking sulphuric acid. Put about 10 gr. of sulphuric acid and a little indigo - say 2 gr. - in a glass jar or bottle with a well-fitting stopper. Stir this till it is smooth with a glass rod or a hard wood stick. Metal must not be used. After this, put a little of each into the jar and stir, and so continue until all has been used. Stopper the bottle firmly: allow the mixture to stand for at least 24 hours before using.

   When using, weigh or measure the Olium in a dry glass and pour carefully into cold water before placing in the dye. Never pour water into the Olium, as it effervesces and may injure the eyes. When the Olium is kept in and airtight bottle, it may be kept for a long time.

   All the recipies for blue which follow are based on Olium measured in a graduated glass. If weighed, take double as many grams. If the sulphuric acid is poor, the indigo will not dissolve, and the color will run. To prove that the indigo is well dissolved, take a few drops of the Olium, mix with water, and strain through a filtering paper. If the filtered dye is still blue, then the indigo has been properly dissolved, but if not, the dye will be white or light blue.

   When Olium is to be used in dyeing, it should be measured or weighed in a dry glass, as described, and dropped or poured slowly into the lukewarm water and well stirred.

   If the color is too light, more Olium may be added, but some of the boiling dye liquid must be thrown away, and the remainder mixed with cold water before the Olium is added. If the liquid is too warm when the material is put in, it becomes streaked or clouded, even though it has been dyed previously. As soon as the yarn has been boiled in the dye, it will be obvious whether it is too light, as by that time all the dye will have been drawn into the goods. If in the heating, it is getting too dark, a part of the liquid is thrown out and the remainder lightened with water before continuing the dyeing. When dyeing with Olium, the liquid must only be lukewarm when the material is put in and it must be quickly stirred and kept in constant motion until it boils.

   By using more or less Olium, many color shades and tints in blue may be obtained from the following recipes.

Blue Dyes

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (mordant).................50 gr.
    Olium....................20 to 30 gr.

   The yarn is mordanted as usual, and is then dyed red in the used liquid remaining after dyeing cochineal red. Dry the yarn. Add 10 gr. Olium to clear lukewarm water, and stir well. Add the red dyed yarn which has first been dipped in warm water, and heat, stirring constantly. Boil for a half hour and dry. When dry, it is again wrung in warm water so that it becomes thoroughly wet. To the new lukewarm water is added 10 gr. Olium and the yarn is again dyed as at first. Boil 1 hour and dry. If a darker blue is wanted, the dyeing must be repeated with 10 gr. Olium. When the dyeing is completed, it must be dried before washing. If there is no red liquid which has been used, the yarn must be mordanted as No. 21, and a dye liquid made of cochineal (10 to 15 gr.). For the rest, handle as above. The darker the blue that is wanted, the darker must be the red of that under dye, with a corresponding amount of Olium added.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum...........................75 gr. } 
    Olium..........................15 gr. } Mordant
    Madder..........................5 gr.
    Olium..........................10 gr.

   The yarn is mordanted as usual. Fresh water is added to the soaked madder, and in this the yarn is dyed red as in No. 23, and then dried. The Olium is added to lukewarm water and well stirred. The red dyed yarn is added. (The yarn must first be wrung out of warm water.) It is then heated slowly, stirred constantly and boiled for 1 hour. Handle as above. It may also be dyed red in used madder liquid.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Olium...........................8 gr.

   When the yarn has been mordanted, it is dyed light yellow in one of the used yellow dye liquids. It is then wrung out of this and dyed blue as above. If a paler dye is wanted, add 5 gr. of iron sulphate after it has been dyed blue, and boil for 10 to 15 minutes. It may now be washed without first drying. Goods dried with iron sulphate must be left well covered by the dye until cool, unless they are constantly stirred in the dye. This liquid forms a crust on the surface in the cooling which spots the goods or yarn near the surface.

    Olium...........................8 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Madder.........................15 gr.

   The yarn is mordanted as usual. Some of the mordant water is thrown away and enough cold water is added to make the liquid lukewarm. Add the Olium, stir well, put in the yarn and heat slowly, stirring constantly. Boil for a half hour and take out. Add enough cold water to the liquid to make it lukewarm and add the dissolved madder and stir well. Add the yarn and heat slowly, stirring constantly and evenly. Boil for a half hour, then cool, rinse and wash.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Olium...........................5 gr.

   The yarn is mordanted and dyed as above. When it is thoroughly boiling in the dye liquid the yarn is cooled, rinsed and washed.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................30 gr.

   Handle the same as above.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................30 gr.
    Olium...................50 to 100 drops.

   Handle as above.

They become slightly greenish after being used and cannot be washed in soda water.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Ground Pine...................250 gr.
    Logwood.......................100 gr.

   The ground pine is chopped fine and soaked in as much water as is needed for the dyeing. The whole is heated daily and is placed where it can be kept lukewarm. When after three to four days it has acquired a sourish odor, it should be well boiled and strained. The water will diminish so that there is enough for dyeing. When the ground pine has been strained, the wet yarn is placed in the liquid and heated every day for three to four days and kept in a warm place. The last day it is boiled; the yarn should then have a light, yellowish, green gray color, and a sour odor. The logwood, which was put to soak the day before, is placed in a bag and boiled in clear water for 1 hour and then removed. The yarn is now wrung out of the ground pine liquid and boiled in the logwood liquid for half to a full hour. It is then taken out and dried. When dry, place it for several hours in a weak birch ash lye and wash. The lye is made by putting the ashes in warm water. With more logwood, a darker color is obtained. This color is fast for covers, but should not be used for finer covers or rugs. In time it becomes slightly grayish in color.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Fresh chickweed.................1 pail.
    Alum (Mordant).................32 gr.
    Logwood........................50 gr.

   The chickweed is boiled for an hour, and drained. The alum is added to the liquid and well stirred. The wet unmordanted yarn is taken, and added to the liquid and boiled for an hour, and taken out. A small bag filled with the soaked logwood is boiled in the liquid for a half hour. Add the yarn and let it boil for an hour, with the logwood bag. Allow the yarn to remain in the liquid until cold. If a darker dye is wanted, use more logwood.

Green Dyes

   The pure green colors are always composed of a yellow and blue dye stuff. These are mostly made by first dyeing the material blue, and then boiling it in a yellow dye. To obtain a dark green the blue foundation must be made dark enough the first time. No amount of boiling in the yellow dye will make the material darker. By adding madder or iron sulphate, the green will become darker but it is another tone, gray or brownish.

   Certain plants give a green dye without using blue. The yellow dye in these plants will, by addition of an iron or copper salt, become green, but the yarn will have a shade of gray or brown.

Green with Birch Leaves.

   For these dyes, fresh and dried leaves may be used. Three kg. fresh leaves make 1 kg. dried leaves.

   The recipes are made on the basis if dried leaves. The leaves are soaked the day before and are boiled in water to make the necessary dye liquid and are then strained. The boiling is done so that all dye material in the leaves may be had. After straining, the leaves are rinsed with a little clear water, and this is added to the liquid which is cooled while the yarn is being dyed blue.

   The yarn is mordanted with the amount of alum called for in the recipe.

   When dyeing blue, throw out half the mordant water and add clear cold water and the proper amount of Olium.

   Olium is measured in a dry graduated glass, or is dropped (counting the drops) carefully into the water which has been heated to 20° C, and is well stirred. The wet, well wrung yarn, already mordanted, is placed immediately in the lukewarm blue liquid. It is stirred and turned quickly around with a stick. This is kept up constantly while the liquid is slowly boiling. By that time, all the dye-stuff will have been absorbed by the yarn and it may be left to boil slowly for a half hour.

   Be very careful in the blue dyeing, because if the yarn becomes clouded it cannot be corrected later, but becomes more noticeable when dyed green.

   When the yarn has been dyed, it is cooled in the liquid before it is taken out. It is then well wrung, put again on the stick and placed in the milk-warm (about 30° C.) birch-leaf liquid. It is constantly turned and kept in slow motion until the liquid is boiling. The longer it is kept in the birch-leaf liquid, the stronger the green color. It should not boil more than 1 hour. If the yarn is not dark enough, due to poor leaves, it must be boiled for half an hour, in new birch-leaf dye after having been dried. It must be thoroughly wet in warm water before being placed in the new dye. The material is allowed to lie in the dye until cold unless the color is becoming too strong. In that case, it is taken up at once and cooled. The color is intensified by having the material lie in the warm dye until it is cold.

   If there are to be several dyes in green, these can well be boiled in the same birch-leaf dye. It is necessary to calculate in advance the proper amount of leaces and to make up separately the blue dyes.

   If the birch-leaf dye is to be used for after-dyeing, it must be cooled before new yarn can be placed in it.

   The dull blue green dyes may also be boiled in the same birch leaf dye that the light fresh green colors were boiled.

   For the light after-dyes, add to the cooled dye 1 to 5 drops Olium, if only light colors have been boiled in it and it contains no blue.

   Whenever dark dyed blue has been boiled in the birch leaf, some of the blue remains.

   Yarn and cloth are handled in the same way, with the exception that wool is to be boiled slowly, while cloth is boiled quickly and kept in constant motion.

   Variations of the birch-leaf dyeing are endless.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dye)................5 gr.
    Birch leaves....................1 kg.

   Boil in birch-leaf liquid for 1 hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dye)................3 gr.
    Birch leaves....................1 kg.

   Boil in birch-leaf liquid for 1 hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dye)................1 gr.
    Birch Leaves..................500 gr.

   Boil in birch-leaf dye for a half to one full hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dye)................1 gr.
    Birch Leaves..................... gr.

   Boil in birch-leaf dye for a half to one full hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................50 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dye)................3 gr.
    Birch Leaves...................1½ kg.

   Boil in birch-leaf dye for 1 hour. If the dye is not green enough, dry the yarn and boil again in a new strong birch-leaf dye for half to one hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dye)................1 gr.
    Birch Leaves....................1 kg.

   Boil in birch-leaf dye for half to 1 hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dye)................1 gr.
    Birch Leaves....................1 kg.

   Boil in birch-leaf dye for half to 1 hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................30 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dye)...............15 drops.
    Birch Leaves....................1 kg.

   Boil in birch-leaf dye for half to 1 hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dye)...............1½ gr.
    Birch Leaves....................1 kg.
    Iron Sulphate..............2 to 5 gr.

   Boil in birch-leaf dye for 1 hour. When the yarn has boiled in the birch-leaf dye, it is taken out of the liquid and the iron sulphate is added and stirred well. The liquid is cooled with a little water, the green dyed yarn be put in again and is boiled, stirring constantly for 10 or 15 minutes. The yarn must not lie in this liquid, but must be taken out as soon as boiled.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dye)................2 gr.
    Birch Leaves....................1 kg.
    Common Madder..................25 gr.
    Iron Sulphate Vitriol...........4 gr.

   Boil in the birch-leaf dye for an hour, and then take out. Cool the liquid and add the 25 gr. soaked madder. Place the yarn in the cooled liquid and let it boil for 15 minutes. Take it out, add the iron sulphate, cool, put in the yarn, and boil for another 15 minutes. Handle as described in No. 46.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................30 gr.

   The mordanted yarn is placed in the cooled after-dye of No. 50, and slowly heated to the boiling point. Boil for a half hour to an hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................30 gr.

   Boil in the same manner as suggested in No. 40, 42 and 43.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Fresh Heather Tops.........1 to 2 kg.

   Chop the Heather and soak, then boil for 4 hours, in a polished iron kettle. When the liquid is put back, the yarn is boiled slowly 1 to 2 hours, according to the darkness of the color desired. Let it lie in the dye till cool, but it must be stirred occasionally. If the liquid is allowed to form a crust, this will spot the yarn.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Dried Bayberry Leaves.........500 gr.
    Iron Sulphate............10 to 20 gr.

   Soak the bayberry leaves and boil for 2 hours. The mordanted yarn is boiled in the strained liquid for 1 hour, and is taken out. Add the iron sulphate and when this is dissolved add a little cold water. Place the yellow dyed yarn in the cooled liquid, heat slowly, stirring constantly and let it boil 5 to 10 minutes. Take it out and cool.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Potassium Chromate..............4 gr.
    Cream of Tartar.................4 gr.
    Mulberry Wood..................90 gr.
    Logwood........................25 gr.

   The potassium chromate and the cream or tartar are dissolved in boiling water, and enough cold water added to make the liquid lukewarm. Place the wet yarn in this and heat slowly, stir, boil for one hour and let it lie in this mordant until cold. Rinse in clear water before placing in the dye. The mulberry and logwood are put to soak the day previous. They are put in a bag and boiled in clear water for 2 hours. Take out the bag and boil the wet mordanted yarn in this dye for 2 hours. If there is room in the kettle, time may be saved by boiling the yarn with the bag for the last hour. If more logwood is used, the color will be darker - less logwood makes it lighter.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dye)................5 gr.
    Mulberry.......................62 gr.
    Tameric Acid...................40 gr.
    Madder.........................13 gr.
    Iron Sulphate...................3 gr.

   The yarn is mordanted and dyed blue, just as is done in birch-leaf dyeing. The mulberry having been soaked, is put into a bag and boiled in clear water for an hour. Take out the bag and add the tameric. Boil before putting in the blue-dyed yarn, which must not be cooled too much. When it has boiled for an hour, in the yellowish liquid, it is taken out. The dye is cooled with cold water to about 40° C., and the soaked madder is added. Put the yarn in again and slowly heat to boiling. Boil for a half hour. Dissolve the iron sulphate and add it to the cooled liquid, after taking out the yarn. Stir well. Put the yarn back and boil from a quarter to half an hour. Take out immediately and cool. With more madder, the color becomes browner, with less, more green. More iron sulphate makes it duller. If the madder is omitted, the color becomes a pure green. These colors are not durable. In time they will become brown or grayish.

Violet Dyes

   Violet dyes are compounded of blue and red. As a rule indigo, cochineal and madder are used. The colors made by these dyes are fast when they are not too light in color.

   With cochineal, the color becomes a pure violet, with more of less red according to the proportion of blue and red dye. With madder and cochineal, the color is more brownish or plum color. The depth of the color is much affected by the quality of the wool according as it is coarse or fine. The latter becomes the darker.

   Light violet dyes become dull and are not satisfactory in coarse or hard cloth. The finer dyes shades require soft wool.

   By using different kinds of mordant, violet shades may be obtained from the blue dye in logwood.

   These colors are not as pretty or fast as the other above mentioned.

Violet with Cochineal.
   For violet, the yarn must first be dyed blue, then red.

   The yarn is done in the same manner as for green. When the yarn has been boiled in the blue dye, it is dried without rinsing.

   Cochineal is powdered fine and put to soak the day before doing the red dyeing. It is then put in clear water, boiled for ten minutes and well skimmed. Lay the dry blue-dyed yarn in the boiling dye, turn it around quickly so that it gets wet, and boil, stirring constantly for the required time; then take it out and cool before washing.

   If the color does not seem to be red enough, the yarn may be left in the dye until cold. This will help with colors which have a very dark blue ground. In that case add a little more soaked cochineal and let the yarn boil longer.

   If the color is redder than desired, boil the yarn a shorter time in the red dye, but not less than half an hour.

   If the foundation blue color is too light, this cannot be remedied after the yarn has been in the cochineal dye.

   Among the following recipes are many possibilities by varying the relation between Olium and cochineal.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................50 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dye)...............10 gr.
    Cochineal......................50 gr.

   Mordant the yarn as usual and dye blue. When dye, boil for an hour in cochineal dye.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................50 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dye)................5 gr.
    Cochineal......................25 gr.

   Handle as No. 54.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................50 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dyes)...............3 gr.
    Cochineal......................15 gr.

   Handle as above but boil for half to one hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dye)...............50 drops.
    Alum (Mordant)..................5 gr.

   Handle as above.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................32 gr.

   When the yarn has been mordanted, boil for a half hour. In the after color of No. 55.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................50 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dye)................4 gr.
    Cochineal......................40 gr.

   The yarn is mordanted and dyed blue as the former have been and is boiled in the red dye for a half to one hour, according to the redness required.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................50 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dye)................2 gr.
    Cochineal......................20 gr.

   Handle as above.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dye)...............30 drops.
    Cochineal......................10 gr.

   Handle as above.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................32 gr.

   Handle as No. 58, and boil in the red after-dye of No. 59 or 60.

Violet with Cochineal or Madder.
   When madder is to be used with cochineal for red dyeing of violet, both ingredients must be soaked separately.

   The dry blue yarn must first be squeezed in warm water so it is wet before it is placed in the mild-warm red dye. In this it is heated and kept near the boiling point. 80° to 90° C. for an hour.

   If the color wanted is more brown, let the yarn boil in the red dye.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................50 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dye)................8 gr.
    Cochineal.......................5 gr.
    Madder.........................25 gr.

   Mordant the yarn as usual, and dye blue as in the case of former blue violet dyes.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................50 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dye)................3 gr.
    Cochineal.......................5 gr.
    Madder.........................20 gr.

   Handle as above.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Olium (Blue Dye)................1 gr.
    Cochineal.......................2 gr.
    Madder.........................15 gr.

   Handle as before.

   In all these red after-dyes, many violet shades may be dyed according as the liquid is dark or light, more or less red or blue. A little of the blue dye will always be left in the red dye.

   The yarn for these after-dyes is mordanted as usual and is boiled in the cooled red liquid. It may also be dyed light blue so that the red becomes the chief color.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Ground Pine...................250 gr.
    Logwood........................50 gr.

   Mordant and Dye as No. 36.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Chickweed.......................1 pail.
    Logwood........................30 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................32 gr.

   Mordant and Dye as No. 37.

Brown Dyes

   Brown is obtained by mixing yellow, red and black dyestuffs.

   Several brown-stuffs are found complete in certain barks and roots and in a number of lichens. From herbs and leaves, brown is seldom obtained.

   To bring out the brown colors, a copper or iron salt must often be added to the yellow or red dyestuff. When these salts, such as iron or copper vitriol, are added, they must be well dissolved and the dye must be cooled before the goods are put back into the liquid.

   In all dyes to which iron or copper vitriol is added, the material must not lie still after it is through boiling. It is best to take it out immediately, cool quickly and rinse in clean water until it is washed.

   A dark scum will always form on the dye when it cools and this will spot the material. The same effect will be produced if the dyestuff is allowed to run down a part of the material after being hung up.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Bayberry Leaves (dried).......750 gr.

   The yarn is mordanted and dyed as for yellow (see No. 4) and is taken out and 15 to 30 gr. copper sulphate is added. Boil the yarn for a quart to one hour. If a very dark color is desired, let it boil again in the same or new dye. The yarn must be dried between each dyeing just as in the heather dyeing. This is a very fast color.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................32 gr.
    Alder Bark (Dry)................5 kg.

   The yarn is mordanted and dyed like the yellow with alder bark (see No 8). But it is boiled in the liquid for 1 to 2 hours, and left until cold. If wanted still darker it may be dried and boiled again in new alder bark dye. This color darkens in time.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................35 gr.
    Dry Bark......................500 gr.

   Chop the bark fine, soak and boil for 3 hours. To the strained liquid, add the alum and when it is dissolved, the dry unmordanted yarn is laid in the boiling dye. Boil in this for 1 to 2 hours, and let it remain until cold.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Fresh Walnut Leaves.............1 kg.

   Boil the leaves for an hour, and strain. The mordanted yarn boils in the dye for 1 to 2 hours, and is left till cold.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum...........................32 gr.
    Cream of Tartar................18 gr. }
    Copper Sulphate................18 gr. } Mordant
    Ammonia Chloride...............13 gr.
    Juniper Berries............1 to 2 litre.
    Copper Acetate.................16 gr.

   The mordants are dissolved in boiling water and stirred. Put in the yarn and boil for an hour, then leave until cold. The dry, ripe berries are broken, put to soak and boil for another hour in clear water. Put in the mordanted yarn and let it boil with the berries for 1 to 2 hours, and then take it out. Strain the liquid and add the copper acetate. Boil the yarn again for a quarter to a half hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Dry Lichens.....................1 kg.

   Crush fine the lichens and soak overnight, and then boil in a copper kettle in a reasonable amount of water. Boil the unmordanted yarn in this for a half to 2 hours. As this dye becomes very thick, the yarn must be stirred constantly. The hanks must be hung far apart and be well shaken. This color becomes clouded easily unless this is done. A fast brown color is the result.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Lichens...................1 to 1½ gr.

   Crush fine the stone lichens and strew well between the yarn which is laid in layers with the lichens in an iron kettle. The yarn must be well covered and some large of pieces of lichens placed between each layer of yarn. The yarn must be wet when laid down. Pour on cold water. Let it soak a few hours before boiling. Boil slowly and evenly for 2 to 6 hours. If the yarn is to be very dark, it must be treated again with new lichens, and in the same manner. If one has some used madder dye, this may be used instead of water. Wool may be dyed in the same manner. This is more easily dyed but the yarn is apt to be clouded unless one is very careful. If must have plenty of room.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Lichens...................1 to 1½ gr.

   This color is handled as above.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Moss..........................250 gr.

   Clean, rinse and chop the moss fine. This is placed between the layers of yarn in a kettle. The yarn is covered with moss. Pour on water and boil for 1 to 2 hours, or longer. The yarn may also be hung on sticks and boiled with the moss like the light yellow brown with stone lichens.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Moss...................500 to 750 gr.
    Cooking Salt...................50 gr.

   The moss is handled as above and laid in layers with the yarn in an iron kettle. Strew the salt between, pour on water and keep warm. Boil for 48 hours. It may stand in an oven or on a heating stove. Handle afterwards like the other lichen colors. It there are not enough lichens, the color may be darkened by adding iron sulphate to the dye. Bit the yarn must first be taken out. This brown color will be more grayish if lichens only are used. All these dyes are absolutely fast.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Santalic Acid..................50 gr.
    Madder.........................50 gr.
    Mulberry.......................50 gr.
    Oak Gall.......................15 gr.
    Iron Sulphate............10 to 15 gr.

   Madder, santalic acid, mulberry and oak gall are pounded fine, put in a bag and boiled for 3 quarters of an hour. The yarn is put dry into the liquid and boiled with the bag for a half hour, and then both are taken out. Add the iron sulphate and cool, and then boil they yarn for 5 to 10 minutes. If wanted darker, use more iron sulphate.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum...........................45 gr. }
    Cream of Tartar................16 gr. } Mordant
    Madder........................125 gr. 
    Oak Gall........................12gr.
    Iron Sulphate..................10 gr.

   Mordant the yarn as usual for 1 hour. Put the soaked madder in clear water. When the liquid is milk-warm, add the wet mordanted yarn. Heat and boil, keeping an even motion for 15 minutes, and then take out. Add the crushed oak gall and stir. Boil the yarn in this for a half hour. Take out, add iron sulphate, cool a little and put yarn back. Boil, stirring evenly for 15 minutes.

Gray Dyes

   All plants that contain tannic acid will make gray dyes.

   Many kinds of bark contain tannic acid from which, by adding iron salts, gray to black dyes may be obtained.

   Boil the plants and the material first in this dye, which will give it a yellow, red or greenish color. Remove the goods and add the iron sulphate, which will change the color to gray. This gray will always have a tone of the foundation color which the plant alone gives: but the more iron sulphate that is added, the darker and more gray the color will become.

   Always maintain accurate proportions between the strength of the dye and the amount of iron sulphate. In a weak dye, a dark gray dye cannot be obtained, however much iron sulphate is added.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................32 gr.
    Alder Bark......................4 kg.
    Iron Sulphate............10 to 30 gr.

   Mordant the yarn and dye yellow with alder bark, as in No. 17. When it has boiled one hour in the alder bark, add the iron sulphate and boil the yarn again for quart to a half hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Dry Birch Bark................600 gr.
    Iron Sulphate............10 to 20 gr.

   The bark is put to soak the day previous and is boiled for 1 hour. Strain and boil the unmordanted yarn in the liquid for 1 hour. Add the iron sulphate and boil the yarn for a quarter of an hour.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum (Mordant).................40 gr.
    Dry Bark........................2 kg.
    Iron Sulphate............30 to 50 gr.

   Boil the bark for 1 to 2 hours, and strain. Boil the yarn in this dye for an hour. Add iron sulphate and treat as described in No. 53.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Kinnikinnic................1.to 2 kg.
    Iron Sulphate.............5 to 20 gr.

   The yarn is mordanted and dyed as for yellow (See No. 16). When boiled, add iron sulphate and boil yarn from 15 to 30 minutes.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Alum..........................260 gr. }
    Cream of Tartar................16 gr. } Mordant
    Fresh Lady's Mantle........½ to 1 kg.
    Iron Sulphate.............5 to 30 kg.

   The yarn is mordanted as usual. Boil the lady's mantle for an hour, and strain. Boil the mordanted yarn in this liquid for an hour. Remove this. Add the iron sulphate. Boil the yarn in this liquid until the color is dark enough.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.

   When in the sorrel dye, yarn has been dyed black (see No. 88); from the after-dye, one can get a gray green after color. The wet unmordanted yarn is boiled for a half hour or longer in this liquid, The liquid may easily stand 1 to 2 days in an iron kettle.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Mulberry Wood..................10 gr.
    Sumac..........................25 gr.
    Oak Gall.......................10 gr.
    Iron Sulphate..................10 gr.

   The mulberry wood, which has been soaked, is boiled for a half hour, and then the sumac and oak gall are added and boiled. The yarn is placed dry in the boiling dye, and boiled for 30 to 60 minutes. Iron sulphate as usual is added (see No. 53) and the yarn is again well boiled.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Oak Gall........................3 gr.
    Mulberry Wood..................1½ gr.
    Madder..........................½ gr.
    Iron Sulphate...................3 gr.

   The oak gall, mulberry wood, and madder is boiled for 15 minutes. The dry, unmordanted yarn is put in the boiling dye and boiled for 30. The yarn is taken out and the iron sulphate added. The yarn is again put back and boiled for a half hour. By taking more or less of the different dyestuffs, the color will have a yellowish, reddish or violet tone. More iron sulphate darkens it.

Black Dyes

   Black dyes can, like gray, be made with the aid of iron salts from the plants containing tannic acid. But they can also be obtained from the blue dye-stuff in logwood. This latter is now most generally used. Although the dye-stuff in logwood is blue, black may be obtained from it by using different sorts of mordants. In order that the black will not be too bluish, a little yellow dye should be added to the logwood.

   For black dyes, an iron kettle is best. Untinned copper may be used, but not tinned copper kettles.

   Logwood is always put in a bag to be boiled and, to save time, the goods may be boiled at the same time as the bag. But it must have plenty of room in the kettle.

   Good dyed black must be dried immediately after dyeing, and then washed well in strong soapy water and rinsed in clean water until it is absolutely clear. When the black dyes are well boiled and properly handled, they are absolutely fast.

    Yarn..........................250 gr.
    Fresh Sorrel..............1 to 1½ kg.
    Logwood.......................175 gr.
    Birch Ashes...................250 gr.

   Boil the sorrel for 1 to 2 hours in a clean scrubbed iron kettle. Strain and scour the kettle before putting the dye back. In this the wet unmordanted yarn is boiled for 2 hours, and lies in the liquid until cold. The yarn should be a dark gray green. Put to soak the logwood, the day before dyeing, and boil in clear water for 2 hours, and take the bag out. The mordanted yarn which has been squeezed out of the sorrel dye and rinsed in lukewarm water is put in the logwood liquid and boiled for 2 hours. When the logwood dye is nearly cold, it is mixed with 1 to 2 litres of dye, which is made by pouring boiling water in the birch ashes, stirred and let stand till cold and clear. Let the yarn lay in the dye for 12 hours, and then dry. Wash later.

Further Use of Used Dye Liquids.

   When yellow or red dyes have been made, the after liquids will always contain enough dye so that they may be used again to dye woolen or cotton goods. Goods that do not require a decided colour. These after dyes are more or less fast and are very pretty. Most are fast as regards washing and can be used for articles not exposed too much sunlight.

   The goods are mordanted and handled the same as previously described. If dyeing rags etc, the mordant if alum or cream of tartar may be added to the dye direct.

Yellow after dyes.

   Different yellow after dyes can be mixed together and the alum added at once. With after dyes of heather, cotton and linen may both be dyed yellow. This is a pretty colour for the warp in simple rugs and carpets.

   In the after dye of ground pine, wool and cotton may be dyed. If they are re-boiled in used logwood dye a good blue grey colour is obtained both in wool and cotton. It may be used for warp and carpet rugs.

Red after dyes.

   Madder dye may be used to the last drop. Wool rags and cotton yarns may be dyed in it. It must boil and the goods will take on a light brownish red colour. Cotton and linen dye very lightly and fade in the sun, but the colour is very pretty and may be used in the warp where white is not wanted. The after dyes may also be used as a foundation colour for darker red and brown shades. A little dye stuff may be saved for this.

   Cochineal dye may be used again until there is only water left. The light red almost colourless dye makes pretty light tints for old wool white dresses and blouses. A large amount of woolen sweater yarn may be dyed light red in such liquid.

   If salmon colour is desired a tin solution is added and the clean dry goods allowed to boil in the liquid for 15 to 30 minutes. The amount of the tin solution is regulated by the weight of the goods. For example 250 gr. of goods requires 50 to 100 gr. of clear yellow tin solution.

   If a more bluish red is required mordant the goods first in alum and then boil without the tin.

   Madder and cochineal dyes may be mixed.

Blue after dyes.

   Indigo gives no after dyes as the goods always draw the entire colour into itself. In logwood dye however light blue grey after dyes are to be found.

Violet after dyes.

   The same is true for these after dyes as for the red after dyes where madder or cochineal have been used.

Green after dyes.

   Green after dyes are not worth while using. They only give a dirty undecided colour.

   Black, grey brown after dyes will give a lighter shade. The grey after dyes may be quite dainty and pretty.

   From black logwood after dyes Grey blue is obtained.

Dyeing of old goods.

   Old Faded goods must first be well washed and then boiled for 15 minutes in soda water (which must not be strong enough to injure the goods.) So that as much of the old dye as possible is removed. Then rinse it well. After that handle as white.

   When old goods are to be dyed a darker colour than the original must be chosen. For success a great deal depends on the foundation colour as the new must be dark enough to cover the old.

   Only pale yellow or pink can be dyed yellow.

   Pale yellow, pale violet, light grey, light brown, very pale green and red may be dyed red.

   Pale yellow, pale green, violet, blue grey and light brown may be dyed blue. With ground pine and chickweed dyes pretty blues may be obtained.

   Blue and red may be dyed violet.

   All other light colours may be dyed brown.

   All colours light and dark may be dyed black.

   When re dyeing the new colour will always have a tone of the old ground colour.

   Unless it is known what dye was used it is always best to test a sample as the results may prove to be a different colour than the one planned for. The old colour is dissolved by the new and forms an entirely different compound.

Bleaching of Woolen Goods.

   No matter how well woolen goods are washed and how thoroughly the fat is removed, it will never be perfectly white. If you require chalk white yarn or woolen cloth then it must be bleached. A peculiar odor will be noticed from these goods if boiling water is poured over them.

   When bleaching woolen goods sulphur is used, this may be done in the home in a tightly closed room.

   For bleaching, a large tight barrel or box with a cover is used. On one side near the floor, cut out a piece large enough to fit a kettle. This hole must be provided with a cover. At the top of the barrel or box, on the inside, nail strips of wood from which to suspend the rods holding the cloth or yarn, alternatively a net may be used.

   After the yarn or wool has been thoroughly washed and rinsed it is allowed to dry enough so that the water does not drip from it. It must be evenly wet, without dry spots. It is hung in the barrel or box and the top is covered and sealed.

   Glowing charcoal is placed in the kettle or dish and a handful of coarsely powdered sulphur is placed on top of the glowing coals and the lower opening is quickly closed.

   There must be enough opening near the bottom to allow draft enough for the sulphur to burn. The yarn or cloth is left in the box or barrel for about 12 hours. If it is white enough it is rinsed in cold water and dried. If not, then bleach again. Care should be taken not to hang the goods too close to the kettle.

   It is not necessary to bleach goods about to be died with vegetable or plant dyes. As a rule this is not done, but if one does not object to the work, certain light dainty colours become clearer when bleached. Some, however, are duller and not as pretty when using bleached yarn.

 15 gr. Soda   					= 1 Handful.
100 gr. Greensoap  				= 1 Heaped wood spoon.
 25 gr. Madder   				= 1 Heaped tablespoon. 
 20 gr. Mulberry         			= 1 Heaped tablespoon.
 15 gr. Logwood   				= 1 Heaped tablespoon.
 20 gr. Cochineal    				= 1 Heaped tablespoon.
  8 gr. Alum   					= 1 Heaped tablespoon.
  8 gr. Coarse cream of tartar  		= 1 Heaped tablespoon.
 12 gr. Coarse powdered Potassium Chromate	= 1 Heaped tablespoon.
 10 gr. Iron Sulphate   			= 1 Heaped tablespoon.
 10 gr. coarsely pounded Copper Sulphate 	= 1 Heaped tablespoon.
  1 gr. Olium  					= 5 Drops.    

    

Further use of Used dye liquids.

When yellow or red dyes have been made, the after liquids will always contain enough dye so that they may be used again to dye woolen or cotton goods. Goods that do not require a decided colour. These after dyes are more or less fast and are very pretty. Most are fast as regards washing and can be used for articles not exposed too much sunlight.
 The goods are mordanted and handled the same as previously described. If dyeing rags etc, the mordant if alum or cream of tartar may be added to the dye direct.
 
Yellow after dyes.

Different yellow after dyes can be mixed together and the alum added at once. With after dyes of heather, cotton and linen may both be dyed yellow. This is a pretty colour for the warp in simple rugs and carpets.
 In the after dye of ground pine, wool and cotton may be dyed. If they are re-boiled in used logwood dye a good blue grey colour is obtained both in wool and cotton. It may be used for warp and carpet rugs.

Red after dyes.

Madder dye may be used to the last drop. Wool rags and cotton yarns may be dyed in it. It must boil and the goods will take on a light brownish red colour. Cotton and linen dye very lightly and fade in the sun, but the colour is very pretty and may be used in the warp where white is not wanted. The after dyes may also be used as a foundation colour for darker red and brown shades. A little dye stuff may be saved for this.
Cochineal dye may be used again until there is only water left. The light red almost colourless dye makes pretty light tints for old wool white dresses and blouses. A large amount of woolen sweater yarn may be dyed light red in such liquid.
 If salmon colour is desired a tin solution is added and the clean dry goods allowed to boil in the liquid for 15 to 30 minutes. The amount of the tin solution is regulated by the weight of the goods. For example 250 gr. of goods requires 50 to 100 gr. of clear yellow tin solution.
 If a more bluish red is required mordant the goods first in alum and then boil without the tin.
 Madder and cochineal dyes may be mixed.

Blue after dyes.

 Indigo gives no after dyes as the goods always draw the entire colour into itself. In logwood dye however light blue grey after dyes are to be found.

Violet after dyes.

The same is true for these after dyes as for the red after dyes where madder or cochineal have been used.

Green after dyes.

Green after dyes are not worth while using. They only give a dirty undecided colour.
 Black, grey brown after dyes will give a lighter shade. The grey after dyes may be quite dainty and pretty.
From black logwood after dyes Grey blue is obtained.

Dying of old goods.

Old Faded goods must first be well washed and then boiled for 15 minutes in soda water [which must not be strong enough to injure the goods.]  So that as much of the old dye as possible is removed. Then rinse it well. After that handle as white.
 When old goods are to be dyed a darker colour than the original must be chosen. For success a great deal depends on the foundation colour as the new must be dark enough to cover the old.
 Only pale yellow or pink can be dyed yellow.
 Pale yellow, pale violet, light grey, light brown, very pale green and red may be dyed red.
 Pale yellow, pale green, violet, blue grey and light brown may be dyed blue.
With ground pine and chickweed dyes pretty blues may be obtained.
 Blue and red may be dyed violet.
 All other light colours may be dyed brown.
 All colours light and dark may be dyed black.
 When re dying the new colour will always have a tone of the old ground colour.
 Unless it is known what dye was used it is always best to test a sample as the results may prove to be a different colour than the one planned for. The old colour is dissolved by the new and forms an entirely different compound.

Bleaching of Woolen Goods.
No matter how well woolen goods are washed and how thorougly the fat is removed, it will never be perfectly white. If you require chalk white yarn or woolen cloth then it must be bleached. A peculiar odor will be noticed from these goods if boiling water is poured over them.
 When bleaching woolen goods sulphur is used, this may be done in the home in a tightly closed room.
 For bleaching, a large tight barrel or box with a cover is used. On one side near the floor, cut out a piece large enough to fit a kettle. This hole must be provided with a cover. At the top of the barrel or box, on the inside, nail strips of wood from which to suspend the rods holding the cloth or yarn, alternatively a net may be used. 
 After the yarn or wool has been thorougly washed and rinsed it is allowed to dry enough so that the water does not drip from it. It must be evenly wet, without dry spots. It is hung in the barrel or box and the top is covered and sealed.
 Glowing charcoal is placed in the kettle or dish and a handful of coarsely powdered sulphur is placed on top of the glowing coals and the lower opening is quickly closed.
There must be enough opening near the bottom to allow draft enough for the sulphur to burn. The yarn or cloth is left in the box or barrel for about 12 hours. If it is white enough it is rinsed in cold water and dried. If not, then bleach again. Care should be taken not to hang the goods too close to the kettle.
 It is not necessary to bleach goods about to be died with vegetable or plants dyes. As a rule this is not done, but if one does not object to the work, certain light dainty colours become clearer when bleached. Some, however, are duller and not as pretty when using bleached yarn.

           Hand Measurements.

15gm Soda   =  1 Handful.
100gm Greensoap  = 1 heaped wood spoon.
25gm Madder   = 1 Heaped tablespoon.
20 gm Mulberry    = 1 Heaped Tablespoon.
15gm Logwood   = 1 Heaped Tablespoon.
20gm Cochineal    =  1 Heaped Tablespoon.
8gm Alum   = 1 heaped Tablespoon.
8gm Coarse cream of tartare = 1 Heaped Tablespoon.
12gm Coarse powdered Potassium Chromate = 1 Heaped Tablespoon.
10gm Iron Sulphate   = 1 heaped tablespoon.
10gm coarsly pounded Copper Sulphate = 1 Heaped Tablespoon.
1 gr Olium  =  5 drops.